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Island group: Dodecanese | Capital: Chora | Population: 1250 | Area: 96 km2 | Highest mountain: 482 m | Airport: Yes, domestic

Astypalea

Astypalea belongs to the Dodecanese islands and it lies a little to itself between Amorgos and Rhodes. That Astypalea belongs to the Dodecanese is not noticeable, the architecture is so Cycladic it can be. Many small-island-lovers have Astypalea as their favourite island. Maybe it's because of the island's location. It is far from civilization. For many, Astypalea is an island to move into low gear, calm reigns here, you have a lazy time at Livadia beach during the day and you sit for hours at a taverna in the evenings. The most tavernas are in Pera Gialos, many of them overlook the sea. If the boat connections had been better, Astypalea would probably be visited by more tourists who like small islands. Good for fans of quiet islands, bad for the locals who want more tourists.

GETTING HERE
The easiest way is to fly to Athens and continue with domestic flights directly to Astypalea, or by ferry from Piraeus, the port of Athens. Another option is to go by air to Kos, take a ferry to Kalymnos and from there continue to Astypalea. The small ferryboat Nisos Kalymnos runs between Kalymnos and Astypalea three times a week. Nisos Kalymnos call at the port of Pera Gilalos, and the big ferries from the boat company Blue Star Ferries dock at the new port, which is located on the other side of the island. Public bus runs from and to the port in connection with the ferries departure and arrival.

GETTING AROUND
Buses start out from Pera Gialos and operate Chora, Livadia and Maltezana. Car and moped rental companies are located in Pera Gialos and along the way to Livadia. As a rule you principally move between Pera Gialos, Chora and Livadia and the distances are not longer than one can walk.

VILLAGES
Pera Gialos and Chora are the two largest villages on Astypalea, in addition there are a couple of hamlets. Pera Gialos is the big port on Astypalea, but there are no longer any large ferries that call at the port. When the new port on the other side of the island was opened the village changed name to Pera Gialos, formerly the village was named Skala. Pera Gialos and Chora are built together, where one village begins and ends is impossible to see. The villages are connected by a l o n g staircase that truly takes on the strength. In Pera Gialos there are pensions, travel agencies, banks, shops and several tavernas and ouzerias. There is also a small beach where it's okay to bathe now when the large ferries are gone. Chora is one of the most beautifully situated villages throughout the Greek islands. The village is dominated by a magnificent fortress, which is like a sugar loaf above the village. The architecture of Chora is Cycladic: whitewashed houses and many narrow alleys. By the windmills there are a square with tavernas, ouzerias and cafes.

Maltezana is a small sleepy village with a decent beach and a nice taverna. No village that you choose to stay for the night, but the taverna is worth a visit for lunch. Nearby are remains of a Byzantine baths. Exo Vathy is a tiny village with a tiny port as far north as you can get. The hamlet is located in a protected bay where fishing boats anchor in bad weather. There is not much to see and it is quite far to go, but the taverna by the waterfront and the soothing atmosphere is reward enough for the long journey. A small beach is nearby for those wishing to take a dip.

BEACHES
The beaches are with few exceptions, pretty mediocre. One of the exceptions is Livadia beach situated in a beautiful and fertile valley about 2 km from Chora. The beach consists of fine grey sand mixed with gravel that gets very hot in the afternoon. Along the beach are several tavernas and pensions. Other beaches can be found around the villages of Meza Vathy and Exo Vathy. Just south of Livadia there are three beaches lined after each other, it is possible to go there with a moped. Kaminakia and Vatses in the south are only reached by bathing boat.

SIGHTS
The main attractions of Astypalea are Chora and the fortress Kastro that is impossible to avoid noticing. Kastro watches over both Chora and Pera Gialos. The Kastro was built as a defense against pirates during the Venetian occupation. There used to be some form of Kastro on most islands, many are now destroyed. The best preserved are on Antiparos, Folegandros, Kimolos, and here on Astypalea. The Kastro on Astypalea is the most impressive of them. On the day it shines white from sunshine and at night it shines like a diamond in the spotlights. It is really impressive. Today, no one lives inside the Kastro, the last inhabitants moved 1948. It costs nothing more than sweat and tears to enter the Kastro. The views are breathtaking.

ACCOMODATION
There are a surprising number of pensions and hotels on Astypalea. Most are located in Pera Gialos, but there are quite a lot at Livadia beach, and along the way down to the beach. You do not need to pre-book rooms, except during high season. Letters of room usually meet up with all the ferries.

MORE ABOUT ASTYPALEA
Geographical location »
Map of Astypalea »
Ferry timetable »

OTHER LINKS
Amorgos - nearest island »
Weather in Greece »

PICTURESFROMGREECE.COM
Pera Gialos »
Skala »

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