Leros

Leros is an island to love or to hate, or perhaps to like more or less. People who like Leros do it enormously, few islands have such fanatical fans, and many go to Leros several times a year. Some stay a long time, some so long that they finally settle there. The Finland-Swedish author Göran Schildt lived periodically on Leros, as well as the Swedish authoress Sun Axelsson. Both have written books that take place on Leros. Göran's book, Diana's island (translation from the Swedish title) and Sun's Eternity ends are highly readable.

Leros has had a bad reputation for a long time. One reason is that the island was used as a deportation place for "dissidents" when Greece was ruled by a military junta. The second reason is the notorious mental hospital that previously took care of its patients in a miserable way. The hospital is located near Lakki. Today it is said that the situation is much better, after the intervention of the EU. However, if that is so, you don't notice anything of that today, and the island's poor reputation ought to be buried in the port of Lakki. The hospital is the largest employer on Leros and therefore the islanders are not so dependent on tourism.

The nightlife is quiet, although there are some bars, mostly in Agia Marina. Otherwise it is the tavernas or ouzeries that is available. The tavernas on Leros offer Greek food at its best. The most striking taverna is located at the windmill in Agia Marina. The windmill is located a few meters out in the sea. It is something of a symbol, or mascot, for Leros. With such an exterior you for sure will be sitting for a long while.

The famous windmill in Agia Marina.

Pandeli. (See also picture on top of the page.)

Getting here
It is easiest to go by air to Kos or to Samos, and then proceed by ferry to Leros. There are two ports on the island: Lakki and Agia Marina. There is also a small port in Xerokampos where small kaikias come and go to Kalymnos. Leros also have daily air connection with Athens.

Getting around
Buses run on almost the whole island. Car and moped rental services are available in Lakki, Alinda and Pandeli.

Villages
Agia Marina and Platanos are built together, and Platanos in its turn is integrated with Pandeli on the other side of the mountain. It is to Agia Marina you will arrive if you are travelling by hydrofoil. Along the quay, there are fishing boats and some tavernas. Where Platanos begins and Agia Marina stops are hard to see, there is not any real dividing line between them. Platanos is the capital of Leros and the most Greek one of the villages on the island. In the village you find cosy alleys with tiny shops and a few tavernas.

Alinda.

Pandeli (or Panteli) is a fishing village with picturesque elements just below Platanos. In my opinion, Pandeli is the cosiest village on Leros, the feeling of being on a really small island is distinct. In the small port the fishing boats crowd together with sailing boats, and together they form a beautiful painting together with the sea. Several nice tavernas lies right on the beach, the tables are placed only a few steps from the water. The beach is not the best, but good enough for a morning or evening swim. The view of Kastro and the windmills in Platanos is like a living painting. Zorba and Psaropoula are my two favourite tavernas in Pandeli.

Lakki has one of the best natural harbours in Greece and it is one of the most peculiar villages. Leros was occupied by the Italians during World War II and the superb harbour appealed to Mussolini. He was so fond of Lakki that he decided to build all houses in an Italian architectural style; he built strange and futuristic buildings, totally unlike the Greek style. Most of the old Italian buildings have been disrepair and today they are rather unaesthetic. Many think that Lakki is a horrible town with its strange houses and large boulevards. I myself like Lakki just because the town is so different from other Greek towns. In all its ugliness there is a certain charm that I at least are attracted to.

Platanos and Castle of Pandeli.

Beaches
Alinda is the biggest tourist resort on Leros and it is quite nice. A long pebble beach lined with hotels, pensions, tavernas and music bars. The majority of the tourists stay here: plenty of room, decent nightlife, close to the beach and great views of Agia Marina and Platanos. To Steki - the last taverna in Alinda - is excellent: good food, friendly staff and live music every Saturday and Sunday.

Vromolithos is a long beach of coarse sand not far from Pandeli. Clear green-blue water, sun beds and umbrellas for rent, plenty of shade from high tamarisk trees. Several hotels and pensions. The view from Taverna Paradise, above the beach, is breathtaking. Blefouti is located on the north of the island, not far from the airport. It is in my opinion the best beach on Leros. There are plenty of shade and a nice taverna nearby. If you rent a car or moped you can go to several small beaches around the island. One that is quite nice is on the way to Blefouti. Look for the small church of Agia Kioura on the map, drive a few yards to the left of the church and you'll be right there. A cosy cove with a decent beach.

Sights
Above the capital Platanos the old Castle of Pandeli prides itself. From here it is a magnificent view of Leros and several of the islands in the Dodecanese. Inside the castle is a fine old church where you can study all sorts of icons and other church items. A path to Kastro begins in Platanos, follow the signs. Going up is strenuous, it is steep; a softer alternative is to drive a car or moped up. The road runs along the cliff, pretty scary if you have vertigo.

Vromolithos.

The allied war Cemetery is a thought-provoking place situated just before Alinda. There are 179 English, two Canadian and two South African soldiers buried here. All died when they was defending Leros against the Germans during World War II.

At a ledge on a cliff just outside the village of Xerokampos on the south of the island lies the little church of Maria of the crabs. It lies to the right if you come from Xerokampos, well signposted. The church is famous because of the icon that gave the church its name. It is said that the icon disappeared every night from the church, and the next day it was found a little bit out in the water. According to the legend, it was crabs that stood behind this wicked deed. How it is with the degree of true in that story, I do not know, what I do know is that the church is one of the smallest I've ever seen. Besides the priest, there is not much room for anybody else.

Accommodation
What village that is the best to stay in depends entirely on who you are. If you want some nightlife, then choose Alinda or Agia Marina; if there is peace and quiet that you are looking for, Platanos and Pandeli is a good choice; and if you want it even quieter you should stay in Vromolithos.

MORE ABOUT LEROS
Geographical location »
Map of Leros »
Ferry timetable »

OTHER LINKS
Weather in Greece »
Kalymnos - nearest island »

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