The village of Vathy on Ithaca

Vathy (population 1,700) is Ithaca’s largest village; there are also a few smaller villages and a couple of tiny ones. Vathy is one of three ports on Ithaca and has a ferry connection to Sami on Kefalonia. The village is situated in a stunningly beautiful bay in southern Ithaca. It stretches along both sides of the bay, making a leisurely stroll back and forth a sheer delight. The town center itself is located in one corner of the bay; this is where most of the amenities are found.

Along the harbor promenade and in the charming harbor square, there are numerous tavernas and cafés. You will find the best taverna on a side street leading off the square; it is called Ó Nikos, and it is one of the most pleasant tavernas I have ever eaten at. There are many other tavernas to choose from, some of which are located right by the water.

Cozy Taverna Ó Nikos in Vathy.

For some reason, the wind picks up every evening, making it impossible to sit at the waterfront tavernas. The wind arrives around five o'clock and dies down sometime after ten. We asked our landlord if it’s always like this, and the answer was yes. Vathy is a very popular overnight anchorage, and the bay and marina are often packed with sailboats in the evening. Sailors sometimes have a hell of a time docking. Yet, the bay remains full of sailboats. In the mornings, however, it is dead calm and very beautiful. Strange.

Vathy is a very popular overnight anchorage for sailboats.

View of Vathy and the beautiful bay.

The small island in the bay above is called Lazareto; it formerly served as a quarantine station for sailors arriving in Ithaca and was later used as a prison. The buildings were destroyed during the major earthquake that struck the Ionian Islands in 1953. Today, only a small chapel remains on the island. Incidentally, Kefalonia was the island hardest hit by the earthquake—an event depicted in the book Captain Corelli's Mandolin.

Beautiful Vathy on Ithaca.

Unfortunately, there is no beach in Vathy; the nearest one is Loutsa Beach, located about two kilometers north of the village. It is nothing to write home about, but it serves well enough for a dip or two.

Loutsa Beach, north of Vathy.

ACCOMMODATION IN VATHY

As Vathy is the largest and most popular village on Ithaca, there is a wide range of hotels, and there are many good places to choose from. Below are recommendations for three good hotels.

Book Mentor Hotel here »

Book Calypso Apartments here »

Book Perantzada Art Hotel here »

Read more about Ithaca at Kalispera »