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Trachila in Mani in southwestern Peloponnese |
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Welcome to Trachila – the village at the end of the world.
Or perhaps more accurately, the village at the end of the road. Trachila
is a small and almost untouched coastal village at the very bottom of
the western Mani peninsula, south of Agios Nikolaos and Agios Dimitrios.
The area is still a kind of hidden corner of the Peloponnese, where tradition,
nature and tranquillity prevail – perfect for those seeking seclusion,
dramatic landscapes and a step away from the tourist world. Trachila
is as far from mass tourism as you can get.
Welcome to Trachila – the village at the end of the world.
Trachila was for a long time an isolated village, like so many other villages in rebellious Mani. Until the late 1970s, Trachila was only accessible on foot or by donkey along old paths from Agios Dimitrios and the interior. Before the road was built, everything had to be transported in by boat. During the 1980s, a simple road began to be constructed from Agios Dimitrios, mainly to connect the village to the electricity and water network. The road was reinforced and paved in the late 1990s to the current narrow, but driveable road, which winds along the coast. The route offers fantastic views of the sea and the cliffs.
The beautiful and dramatic coastal road to Trachila.
Spectacular rock formations along the road to Trachila.
One of the caves you pass on the way to Trachila. |
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According to the latest census (2021), about 35–40 people live here permanently. During the summer, the number increases slightly, but it is by no means a tourist destination in the usual sense. Many houses are empty in winter, but some are used as summer homes or privatly rented out to the few tourists who come here. I'm a little sceptical that there would be as many as 35–40 people living in Trachila. At least it's not something you notice when you're here, because you meet very few people.
There is no crowding along the seafront promenade in Trachila.
When you arrive in Trachila, it feels like time stops, or at least slows down. Nothing happens here that didn't happen the day before. There's not much to do, not even during high season. In other words, Trachila is an ideal village for those who wish to do nothing and for those who looking to escape today's hectic consumer society. There aren't even any shops in Trachila. The nearest supermarket is in Agios Nikolaos, which is about 8 kilometres north of Trachila. But there is a church in the village, always something. :-)
The church in Trachila.
Fortunately, there is a taverna and a café in Trachila, otherwise it might not have been worth the long drive here. Taverna Akrogiali is the only taverna and is famous for its homemade Greek dishes with, among other things, fresh fish and seafood. Trachila is, and always has been, a fishing village. Unfortunately, Taverna Akrogiali is not open for lunch, it only opens at six o'clock. When I've been here it's been closed, but I knew that before I drove here, so I ate a banana for lunch instead, and that was fine too. :-)
Taverna Akrogiali offers good food and beautiful views of the sea.
There are no shops in Trachila so bring your own food and drinks if the taverna is closed.
Café in Trachila. |
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There are no beaches in or near Trachila. So if you're looking for beaches, Trachila might not be for you. But you can bathe and swim in the crystal clear water in the harbour basin. You can go down to the sea via stairs. The nearest beach is Pantazi beach, which is near Agios Nikolaos. If you like sandy beaches, drive to Stoupa, which is about 10 kilometres north of Trachila. By the way, Kardamili is located about 18 kilometres north of Trachila.
Trachila seen from the other side. Wheelhouse Trachila Mani on the far left in the picture.
ACCOMMODATION IN TRACHILABelieve it or not, there is actually accommodation in this remote village. I haven’t stayed here, but I would love to. Imagine how amazing it must be to wake up to the sound of the waves and fall asleep to the same sound, otherwise completely silent. If I ever write a book, this is where I will do it. Moreover, I will write my memoirs in the picturesque village of Limeni, which is not far from Trachila.
Book Wheelhouse Trachila Mani here »Book Kipaki Trachila Mani here »Read more about Peloponnese here » |
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