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Stoupa & Kalogria south of Kardamili in Mani |
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The tourist resorts of Kalogria and Stoupa are located about 8 kilometres south of Kardamili and have about 640 inhabitants. Stoupa is different from all the other villages I have visited in Mani, and even in the whole of Messinia, as the regional unit where Mani is located is called. Stoupa was originally a small fishing village that over the years has developed into a very popular tourist destination. The village could just as easily be located in Naxos or Crete.
The beach and the beach promenade in Stoupa.
The Swedish author Staffan Stolpe wrote this about Stoupa in his eminent book Morea – En bok om Peloponnesos. The book was published in 2002 and Stoupa was already a popular tourist destination at that time. As far as I know, the book is only available in Swedish, so the text below is freely translated by me. “On the main road leading down to Mani, four kilometres south of Kalamata, there is a crossroads, at which the village of Stoupa’s bakery is located. Stoupa is an exploding village that, with its two wonderful beaches, is attracting more and more tourists. On the slopes, newly built villas, bungalows and hotels are spreading like solar feathers. The entire area, which was poor and medieval just 30 years ago, has an attraction for wealthy returning Stoupa residents and Englishmen building villas.”
Stoupa beach in one direction.
What has made Stoupa so popular? As is often the case with developed villages, it is all about the beaches. Here are two of the finest sandy beaches in the entire area: Stoupa beach and Kalogria beach. The beaches are separated by a hill and both are shallow and very child-friendly. To be precise, there is a third sandy beach in Stoupa. More about that below. Many foreigners, mainly from Great Britain, Holland and Germany, have houses in Stoupa. A few Swedish families also live here.
Stoupa beach in the other direction. |
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Kalogria is famous because the Greek writer Nikos Kazantzakis (1883-1957) met his friend Alexis Zorbas here when they were trying to start a coal mining project in Prastova, which is located near Kalogria. This event later inspired Kazantzakis to write the novel Zorba the Greek. The book later became even more famous through the film of the same name
The child-friendly sandy beach of Kalogria is located just before Stoupa.
Nikos Kazantzakis was from Crete, and he therefore set the action in Crete. Zorba is played brilliantly in the film by Anthony Quinn, and it’s he who carries almost the entire movie. The wonderful final scene at Stavros Beach has gone down in film history. The film music is also classical and many have tried to dance like Zorba on holiday. Mikis Theodorakis' music had its breakthrough with this film. But as I said, the story of Alexis Zorba began here in Kalogria.
Kalogria Beach as seen from the road to Stoupa.
Kalogria is much smaller than Stoupa, but for that reason there is no shortage of facilities. Above, and on the beach, there are several restaurants and tavernas as well as many hotels and pensions. Sunbeds and umbrellas are available for rent. It takes between five and ten minutes to walk between Kalogria and Stoupa.
One of the tavernas at Kalogria beach.
It takes between 5 and 10 minutes to walk between Kalogria and Stoupa, which is located behind the hill. |
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Stoupa is the largest tourist resort in the area, but that doesn't mean that the village is over-exploited. I mostly experience it as small-scale - and fairly responsible - tourism. For example, there are no large hotel complexes here and Stoupa is far from the concept of mass tourism. If you think that villages like Kardamili, Agios Nikolaos, Limeni and Areopoli are too small and quiet, then Stoupa is probably a much better fit for you. And if you like sandy beaches, you've come to the right place.
The part of Stoupa beach that is snorkel-friendly.
The beach in Stoupa consists of fine golden sand and clear water, and is, as I said, very child-friendly. At the part closest to Kalogria there are some rocks where the water is snorkel-friendly. Of course, there are sunbeds and umbrellas to rent. The beach promenade is lined with tavernas, restaurants, cafes and bars. All the facilities that belong to a tourist resort are of course there, such as shops, car and scooter rental companies, ATMs and tourist offices. The latter offer bus excursions and boat trips. Perfect for those of you who want to see more of Mani.
Behind the small fishing port in Stoupa is Halikoura beach, which I mentioned as the third beach.
Halikoura beach in Stoupa is also child-friendly.
ACCOMMODATION IN STOUPA AND KALOGRIAThe range of hotels is extensive, offering everything from luxurious boutique hotels to simple, family-run pensions. It doesn't really matter where you stay as it is close between Stoupa and Kalogria, and it is close to the beach (almost) no matter where you stay. Below are tips for good hotels in the area. Book Linari Villas here »Book Lighthouse Apartments here »Book Petras Gi - Stone Houses here »Book Tseralia Houses here »Book Emerald Ville here »Read more about Peloponnese here » |
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